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Niacinamide (Vitamin B3, nicotinamide)

Skincare ingredient, decoded — every claim sourced.

What it is

A water-soluble form of vitamin B3 that supports the look of a healthy skin barrier, helps the appearance of even tone, and calms the look of redness.

How it works

Niacinamide is a building block for the coenzymes NAD+ and NADP+, which the skin uses to power its everyday energy and renewal processes. For the look of the barrier, it encourages the skin's own production of ceramides and related surface lipids, which is associated with firmer, more comfortable-feeling skin and less water loss in dry skin (Tanno 2000). For tone, it does not block pigment formation directly; instead it helps slow the handoff of pigment packets (melanosomes) from pigment-producing cells to the surrounding surface cells, which in cosmetic use is linked to a measurable improvement in the appearance of uneven pigmentation (Hakozaki 2002). It also has a calming, anti-redness quality that supports the look of blemish-prone, reddened skin.

Works well with

Hyaluronic acidCeramidesRetinolZinc PCAMost sunscreens and moisturizersPeptides

Introduce carefully alongside

High-dose pure L-ascorbic acid (vitamin C) in the same layer for the very sensitive - separate by time of day if you notice transient flushing; modern formulas are usually compatible

Who should take care

Generally well tolerated by most skin types, including sensitive and barrier-compromised skin. Those who flush easily may prefer to start at 2-4% rather than 5%+. Anyone who has reacted to a niacinamide product before should patch-test first. If you have an active skin concern or are unsure how it fits your routine, it is sensible to consult a doctor; this is cosmetic reference, not treatment advice.
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Sources

  1. Tanno O et al. Nicotinamide increases biosynthesis of ceramides as well as other stratum corneum lipids to improve the epidermal permeability barrier. Br J Dermatol. 2000;143(3):524-31. (PMID 10971324)
  2. Hakozaki T et al. The effect of niacinamide on reducing cutaneous pigmentation and suppression of melanosome transfer. Br J Dermatol. 2002;147(1):20-31. (PMID 12100180)
  3. Final Report of the Safety Assessment of Niacinamide and Niacin. Int J Toxicol. 2005;24(Suppl 5):1-31 (Cosmetic Ingredient Review). (PMID 16596767; doi:10.1080/10915810500434183)
  4. Khodaeiani E et al. Topical nicotinamide in inflammatory acne vulgaris. Int J Dermatol. 2013;52(8):999-1004. (PMID 23786503)
  5. Boo YC. Mechanistic Basis and Clinical Evidence for the Applications of Nicotinamide (Niacinamide) to Control Skin Aging and Pigmentation. Antioxidants (Basel). 2021;10(8):1315. (PMC8389214)
This is not medical advice at all — cosmetic information only. Not suitable during pregnancy or breastfeeding; always consult your doctor.